Day 1

Your “welcome aboard” is in the vibrant city of Cairns – but this time embarkation proceedings will be a little different! One of our crew members will escor t you aboard Nor th Star ’s very own char ter aircraft! Now sit back and enjoy the comfor table flight to Kavieng. As soon as you step off the plane you will begin to reshape your impressions of the “land of the unexpected”. Perhaps the clean and fresh sea breezes will take you by surprise, or will it be the huge smiles of locals so eager to welcome you to their island paradise. After clearing customs, we will transfer you to the onboard luxury of the True North and, the del ight s of our renowned gallery.

Enjoy a welcome aboard lunch before we visit a local i s land resort .

Day 2 Today we cruise the New Hanover Island area. Join the ‘shore party’ and discover post card beaches, palm trees, tranquil villages and a flotilla of canoes. The many islands around New Hanover are a cruise highlight. A morning sing sing will be a memorable event as every man, woman and child turns out in welcome. You will certainly find endless irresistible beaches and amazing coral gardens that are just a ‘fin kick’ away! And, what a place for diving and snorkeling - Papua New Guinea’s reputation as a diving destination could very well be without peer! Here we find ships, planes and even submarines in shallow water and, there will be lots of hot action in the fishing tenders! The fishermen will do battle with hard fighting table fish such as mackerel, yellow fin tuna and mahi mahi. At day’s end, relax with a drink in the alfresco bar before returning to the dining saloon for more culinary delight!
Day 3

This morning we wake in Manus Province – very few travellers make it to this remote part of Papua New Guinea. The province consists of several island groups including the Horno Islands, the Admiralty Islands (including Manus Island), the Hermit Islands, Ninigo Islands and Wuvulu Island. The combined land area of the province is just 2,100 square kilometres however 220,000 square kilometres of sparkling sea surrounds! Some 45,000 people live within the province boundaries. The name Manus is a traditional name for a group of fishing people who inhabit the coastal areas of Manus Island. The name differentiates them from other groups with differing customs and languages. These people were seafarer s and t rader s.

The outstanding feature of their society was individualism and self-reliance. The most cohesive unit was the clan; a number of clans would make up a village, but they retained their separate identities with-in the village. Each clan would have a men’s house which was built by the most powerful person in the clan. Around this would be a number of family houses. Each house was under the protection of a recently deceased male relative whose skull was kept within the house. The spirit of the deceased was potent for as long as good fortune visited the person who gave the skull shelter. The skull was discarded when the spirit was no longer effective. Apart from this ancestral protection there was no organized religion of worshiping deities. Truth and respect for property were highly valued attributes and it was through the spirits that this code was maintained. The influence of Christian Missionaries and takingon of ‘western behaviour’ has changed some of these outlooks and customs. Today the dead are buried in communal or private cemeteries. Change has also come in the form of new commercial pursuits - today the province largely relies on coconut cultivation and bech de mer (sea cucumber) fishing. The area is renowned for scuba diving and features colorful marine life, coral reefs, shipwrecks, and clear water. During the morning we visit the island of Rambutyo – the second largest island (after Manus) in the Admiralty Islands. The islands lies 40 kilometres to the southeast of Manus and here we hope to encounter traditional garamut (split drum) dancers. There wi l l al so be oppor tuni t y for some shor t walks and, spectacular hel icopter f l ight s over the i s land group.

In the afternoon we plan to go ashore at Lou Island – an extinct volcano just 20 kilometres to the north of Rambutyo. There is a hot spring suitable for bathing and opportunity to discover Obsidian – a naturally occurring volcanic glass. This curious substance is formed when lava cools rapidly. Due to the absence of crystal growth, an Obsidian blade can be almost molecular thin. Hence it’s ancient reverence as a projectile point and more modern use in the manufacture of surgical blades. The island’s pristine fringing reef will also prove irresistible to the fishers and snorkelers onboard.
Day 4 Join your fellow adventurers as we step ashore at intriguing Tong Island. Located 50 kilometres to the east of Manus – Tong is a distinctive volcanic cone with a diameter of 5 kilometres. A large freshwater lake dominates the central depression and the remainder of the island is mostly covered in dense vegetation. However there are also smaller freshwater lakes within hiking distance of the palm fringed beaches. Having stretched the laces on our hiking boots – return to the comfort of the TRUE NORTH and enjoy some mid-morning refreshment. We’ll spend the rest of the morning exploring Tong’s sparkling waters. Tong is surrounded by coral reef and there are endless opportunities for fishing, snorkelling and diving. Then enjoy a sumptuous lunchtime cruise to the island of Pak. Pak is a low lying island built on a 4 metre high bed of coral. The people of Pak were the only Melanesians known to have slept on beds! The island’s coastline is often guarded by tide offering an aquarium like glimpse of the local marine life.
Day 5

An entire day devoted to beautiful Ponam Island. Ponam played a major role in World War II. The island was occupied by Japanese forces in 1942 and retaken by Allied forces in 1944. American “Seabees” immediately constructed an airfield which they then handed over to the British Royal Navy. The British named the airfield HMS Nabaron and used it as a forward operational base. After encountering the enemy, it was not uncommon for damaged aircraft to crash when attempting to land and today the wreckage of several planes can been seen in the shallow lagoons that surround the island. Of particular interest is Ensign Jensen’s plane. The naval flyer was the only pilot to report a full-strength Japanese convoy that would have otherwise remained undetected. Unfortunately he was killed when his plane crashed during a takeoff from Ponam and the wreckage can be seen in a lagoon on the east side of the island. The terrestrial remnants of HMS Nabaron should attract the attention of our shore parties whilst the snorkellers will be keen to closely inspect planes lying wrecked in the shallow waters adjacent to the island. Fishing is bound to be popular with reports that trolling for marlin, yellow fin tuna, trevally and mackerel is possible. Bottom fishing apparently produces quality catches of snapper. Ponam is also reportedly adjacent to the longest coral reef in Manus Province providing plenty of opportunity for SCUBA diving. The ship’s helicopter will again swing into action offering a unique prospective of the island’s many lagoons and, nearby Manus Island.

There may even be time for a romantic stroll along your very own beach complete with coconut palms and a shimmering South Pacific sunset.
Day 6 Today we begin to visit a region that was highly rated by Jean-Michel Cousteau. The Hermit Islands form a 22 kilometre long barrier reef. They are renowned for their clam gardens and the snorkelling is reported to be spectacular. For the divers - The Hermits also feature incredible reef formations where large schools of mobula rays, snapper, trevally and grey reef sharks are encountered! Fresh ocean currents also make for rip-roaring dives in channels chocked with giant sea fans and soft coral formations. Marlin and sailfish are also known to occur and hopefully the hikers will catch a glimpse of deer introduced by German colonists. In the afternoon the expedition boats will land at Luf Island – the only inhabited island in the Hermits. Join the crew as we meet the locals and experience local village life.
Day 7 & 8 The Ninigo Islands are a large open-atoll structure surrounded by several smaller atoll formations. In total there are 7 atolls with around 50 small islets – plenty of opportunity for exploration. The largest component of islands forms a 34 km long by 18 km wide atoll that is open on its western side. The major island within the group is Mal, located at the southern end of the outer reef. Other islands on the reef include: Hepi, Lau, Pelipa, Ahu, Sawapil, Chauch, Menan, Longan, Nahanu, Hepisasa, Chacheon, Maichuch, Potaminam, Amik, Puol, Pisa, Ngi, Onia, Wahangahun, Sabucho, Pihun, Keholl, Kamochin, Sand and Nunu. Within the lagoon are the islands of Pingilap, Talil, Hottom, Bahanat and Amot. We have allocated the better part of 2 days to explore as many of these likely picture-perfect islands as we can! And it’s very likely that both days will be filled with magical snorkelling and diving experiences, leviathan struggles with rod and reel, exhilarating dips in the crystal clear lagoons and romantic strolls along the ever-present palm fringed beaches.
Day 9 When Jean-Michel Cousteau explored this area – he chose fascinating Wululu Island as his base. However, even today, the island is rarely visited by foreigners. The period of earliest visitation is unknown; however, it is believed that Wuvulu and the other Western Islands of the Bismarck Archipelago have been inhabited for several centuries. The Wuvulu people have always had little contact with the rest of the world excepting their closest neighbors, the Aua Islanders to the north east and occasional visits by the fast sailing canoes of the Ninigo Islanders to the east. European traders did established copra plantations in the late 1800’s and a mansion built by Swedish Consul Heinrich Wahlen was reputed to have been the first house in PNG to have electric light. Interestingly, Wahlen obtained furnishings from Queen Emma’s mansion on Kokopo Island (see our Adventures in Paradise and Adventures in Paradise Extended itineraries). Years later in the early 1980’s the furniture was sold off – probably for a small fortune as Queen Emma had originally bought the furniture from Robert Louis Stephenson! Also adding to the ‘flavour’ of the area was screen actor William Holden’s 1970’s interest in establishing an eco-resort. Holden made several visits to the area and wanted to protect the indigenous population and the environment from the ravages of the wider world. The idea didn’t go over too well with the newly independent PNG government and the Western Islands were destined to continue their long history of isolation. Wululu is a low coral island of volcanic origin with a maximum elevation of just 3 metres. It is approximately 19 kilometres in circumference and has a surface area of 1,400 hectares. It is estimated that the island population was approximately 1,500 during the 19th century. However, as had happened on so many other South Pacific islands, malaria and other diseases brought by German planters and missionaries decimated the population to less than 300 by 1905. Today, the population numbers approximately 1,000 individuals divided into two main villages on the west coast of the island, Auna (sunrise) and Onne (sunset). The Wuvulu islanders are excellent fishers and their principal source of food is of fish. One interesting fishing technique involves a group of women walking on the reef while pulling a long string of coconut leaves between them. The leaves form a large circle which is slowly drawn closed around a preset pile of stones on the reef. The frightened fish inside the circle seek refuge inside the stone pile. The women then surround the stone pile with small framed nets, remove the stones, catch the fish in their nets and then kill them by biting them on the head - apparently a very efficient technique in which women of all ages participate. Early islanders dug very large cultivation pits out of the coral soil of the island. These pits filled up with rain water and formed large ponds that are still used today to plant taro. Each family has a vegetable garden where sweet potato, cassava (used to make tapioca) and a type of cabbage is grown. The islanders use a traditional open air coral “stove” heated by burning dry coconut husks, hardwood and empty coconut shells. After this fuel has burned, the stove is covered by layers of different size coral stones spread over the hot embers. These open stoves remain hot for up to twelve hours and are used to cook most of their staples in cooking vessels made of fresh, green pandanus leaves which, because of a high water content, do not burn easily and remain green on the inside. A lot of the food, fish, vegetable and fruit alike, is cooked in coconut milk. The presence of such vibrant culture means that we are likely to spend much of the day ashore and, we will endeavour to visit both villages.
DAY 10 Another day steeped in wartime history – today we visit two islands that played significant roles in World War II. Kairiu and Musha Islands were both Japanese strongholds during the hostilities. Kairiru is heavily forested & rises nearly 800m above sea level. The western end of the island is volcanic and the sea has broken into the active crater at Victoria Bay. Here there is good snorkelling, a hot springs and refreshing waterfalls. There is also still evidence of the Japanese occupation on the island including large guns, a radar installation and a number of ship wrecks. Musha is dominated by palm trees and surrounded by turquoise waters. The nearby reef is perhaps one of PNG’s best kept secrets and well suited to our usual line-up of fishing, snorkelling and diving. Then join the crew for cocktails on a picturesque Musha beach and, savour another spectacular South Pacific sunset.
DAY 11 We saved the best for last! The Sepik – as far as adventure is concerned, it doesn’t get much better. Just the name conjures up excitement. The Sepik River is the longest river in Papua New Guinea and, one of the great river systems of the world. It has a large catchment area and supports numerous landforms including swamplands, tropical rainforests and mountains. Biologically, the river system is possibly the largest uncontaminated freshwater wetland system in the Asia-Pacific region. The river’s total length is 1,126 kilometers and it has a drainage basin of over 80,000 square kilometres! There is a 5-10 kilometer wide belt of active meanders along most of the river’s course and a floodplain up to 70 kilometers wide includes extensive backwater swamps. However, unlike many other large river systems, the Sepik has no delta – it flows straight into the sea. The entire Sepik basin remains a largely undisturbed environment - there are no major urban settlements or mining and forestry activities in the river catchment. Local villagers have lived along the river for many millennia and the river has formed the basis for food, transport and culture. European contact with the river started in just 1885 when German colonists first explored the area. In 1886 and 1887, further expeditions by steam boat were conducted by the Germans and over 600 kilometers of riverine was explored. Between 1912 and 1913 the Germans sent further expeditions to explore the river and surrounding areas. They collected flora and fauna, studied local tribes and produced the first maps. The station town of Angoram was established as a base on the lower Sepik for explorations, but with the beginning of World War I, exploration ceased. After the war the Australian government took trusteeship of the former German colony, creating the Territory of New Guinea. During this period the Australians established a station on the middle Sepik at Ambunti and conducted further exploration. In 1935 Sir Walter McNicolls, the new administrator of the Territory of New Guinea travelled up length of the Sepik to “have a look at the river people and the kind of country along the banks”. The Japanese held the area throughout most of the Second World War. By the end of the war the Japanese had been completely surrounded however, the battle to defeat the remaining forces was hard fought and drawn out due to the terrain. The Australians eventually pushed the Japanese back to the village of Timbunke on the middle Sepik in July 1945. Eventually the Japanese were defeated and surrendered at Wewak in September 1945. The Sepik is revered for its art. The tribes living along the river produce magnificent wood carvings and artful clay pottery. Many tribes use garamut drums in rituals; the drums are formed from long, hollowed-out tree trunks carved into the shape of various totem animals. As part of an elaborate coming of age ceremony, young men are scarified with the image of a crocodile on the river bank. The TRUE NORTH will anchor in the mouth area and then it’s away in the expedition boats and the helicopter for a day of exploration and discovery. In the late afternoon we will return the TRUE NORTH for a farewell dinner to remember.
DAY 12 This morning we are alongside in Madang. Transfer to your charter plane and the return flight to Cairns. We are already looking forward to welcoming you back onboard – the next time you GO WILD IN STYLE!
      
True North Adventure Cruises